Pangong Tso, Umling La and Khardung La: The Leh-Ladakh Side Trips You Can't Skip

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You don't go to Leh just for Leh. The Ladakh that most riders come back talking about isn't the town - it's the three side trips you make from it. Pangong Tso lake at sunrise. Umling La at 19,024 ft. Khardung La, the pass that's been on every postcard since Indian motorcycle tourism began. Each is a full day in itself. Together they're the difference between a ride and the ride.

Here's how to do all three.

Khardung La: The Original Postcard Pass

The pass that built Ladakh's mythology. For decades, the boards at Khardung La claimed it was the highest motorable pass in the world. The claim has since been disputed, then debunked (Umling La is higher), then quietly removed. Khardung La is "merely" 17,582 ft.

The ride: - 39 km from Leh, ~1.5 hours one way - Tarmac all the way - Permit required (Inner Line Permit available from Leh DC office) - Best done as a half-day trip or en route to Nubra Valley

The reality: - Cold, even in August (wear layers) - Mobile signal disappears - The summit is a small parking area with a tea stall and a board - The view back towards Leh is spectacular - Most riders linger 30 minutes before descending

If you're heading to Nubra Valley, you'll cross Khardung La both ways. Doing it as a standalone day-trip is also fine — quick photo at the summit, descent back to Leh by lunch.

Pangong Tso: The Lake at 4,250m

The bluest lake in India, the one from "3 Idiots", and the destination almost every Ladakh-bound rider has on their list. The challenge isn't getting there — it's deciding which of the two routes to take.

Route 1 (the standard): Leh → Karu → Chang La → Tangtse → Pangong - ~225 km, 6-7 hours - Crosses Chang La pass (17,586 ft) - Tarmac mostly, broken in parts

Route 2 (the dramatic): Leh → Hemis → Shang Sumdo → Karzok side - Less travelled, more technical - Longer ride, fewer fellow tourists - Reaches Pangong from the south side

Most riders use Route 1 for ease.

At the lake: - Camp at Spangmik or Maan-Merak on the western shore - Permits required (ILP from Leh DC office) — get this BEFORE you ride - Mobile signal: BSNL has patchy coverage, others nothing - Sunrise at Pangong is the photograph everyone takes home - Cold at night — bring a sleeping bag even if you're staying at a camp

You can either return to Leh the same way the next morning, or continue south to Tso Moriri (3-4 day extension) for the full Changthang plateau experience.

Umling La: The Real Highest

The pass that quietly took Khardung La's title and rarely makes the brochures because most tourists can't reach it. Umling La stands at 19,024 ft (5,798m), making it currently the world's highest motorable road.

Why most riders don't do it: - ~360 km from Leh, deep into restricted military territory - Requires special Inner Line Permits with extra approvals - The Hanle area was opened to civilians only recently - Roads are remote, rough, and at extreme altitude - Two-day round trip minimum

Why those who do it never stop talking about it: - The road literally crosses into nothing — no village, no checkpoint, no traffic - Hanle has one of the world's most light-pollution-free skies (the Hanle Dark Sky Reserve) - You stand higher than the summit of Everest base camp by motorcycle - The descent has views that don't exist anywhere else in India

Permits and planning for Umling La: - Get Inner Line Permits from Leh DC office with Hanle and Umling La explicitly listed - Allow 3-4 days for the full Umling-Hanle loop from Leh - Carry the full Himalayan checklist plus a 5-litre fuel jerrycan - Service-grade infrastructure does not exist past Hanle. Carry tools.

Recommended itinerary for the Hanle-Umling loop from Leh: - Day 1: Leh → Tso Moriri (~210 km) - Day 2: Tso Moriri → Hanle (~150 km) - Day 3: Hanle → Umling La summit → return to Hanle (~120 km round trip) - Day 4: Hanle → Leh (~270 km)

The Three-Side-Trip Itinerary from Leh

If you've reached Leh and want to do all three:

• Day 1: Arrive Leh, rest, acclimatise
• Day 2: Leh → Khardung La → Nubra Valley → camp at Hunder
• Day 3: Hunder → Khardung La → Leh (or Hunder → Pangong via Shyok valley)
• Day 4: Pangong → Spangmik camp overnight
• Day 5: Pangong → Tso Moriri
• Day 6: Tso Moriri → Hanle
• Day 7: Hanle → Umling La → Hanle
• Day 8: Hanle → Leh

That's an 8-day itinerary from Leh, plus the Manali-Leh and Leh-Manali rides on either end. Total Himalayan trip: 14-16 days minimum.

The "I Got Leh'd" Apparel

Our I Got Leh'd Oversized T-Shirt maps the complete Ladakh circuit on the back print — Delhi, Manali, Jammu, Pathankot, Srinagar, Zoji La, Kargil, Leh, Pangong Tso, Umling La and Nubra Valley. The one tee that captures all three side trips.

Pair it with our Leh Expedition map sticker, the Leh-Ladakh Conqueror 9-sticker pack, our Mani Prayer Wheel sticker, and the Tibetan Prayer Flags sticker. For more, browse the full destinations sticker collection.

FAQ

Do I need separate permits for each side trip? One Inner Line Permit covers multiple destinations if you list them on the application. Get the ILP from the Leh District Commissioner's office and explicitly mention every destination you plan to visit: Khardung La, Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri, Hanle, Umling La. Apply in person — turnaround is 24 hours.

Is Umling La open to civilians? Yes since 2023, with appropriate permits. The road conditions vary year to year. Confirm latest status with riders who've recently completed the route or via BRO/Indian Army updates.

Can I do all three side trips in one Ladakh trip? Yes if you've allocated 8+ days at Leh. If your total Himalayan trip is under 14 days, you'll need to pick — typically Pangong + Khardung La are easier to combine; Umling La is the one that needs dedicated time.

Is altitude sickness worse at Umling La than Khardung La? Significantly. Umling La is ~1,500 ft higher than Khardung La. AMS risk is real. Acclimatise in Leh for at least 3 days, complete one other altitude trip first (Pangong or Khardung La), and only then attempt Umling La.

What's the best month for Pangong Tso? September. Lake is unfrozen, sky is clear, photography light is excellent. June-August is more crowded. October-April the lake partially freezes.

— The Motohomies team

Plotting the full Ladakh trip? See our Manali to Leh route guide. Looking at the wider Himalayan circuit? Read our Spiti Valley guide and Zanskar Valley guide.